Getting the wall details right

Most of the recent activity at the project has been in the basement: in the last two weeks the sub-slab radon and drainage piping was installed, the basement floor was insulated, and the slab was poured.  This has also given the carpenters time to work on wall mockups of the house and garage, which we’ve been using to make sure we get details right and verify all the components go together correctly.  It helps find areas where the design could be susceptible to poor drainage, and works out complications before the components get installed on the house.  The photos provide a great opportunity to see what will make this an airtight, well-insulated, and durable house from the exterior:

Hunter rigid foam insulation (2” on the walls, 4” on the roof) to thermally seal the house, provide an airtight exterior envelope, and give support for attaching the siding;

Henry VP100 Blueskin, a fully-adhered membrane which prevents air and water leakage but lets any moisture which gets into the wall to dry out;

Benjamin Obdyke rain slicker, which provides drainage behind the exterior siding;

Grace Ice and Water Shield on the roof to create a watertight barrier below the shingles;

Boral siding, a composite siding which is more rot- and insect-resistant than wood

The mockups also have been valuable for working out exterior details so that we keep the historical configuration of the home’s original trim while ensuring it drains better and is durable.  One thing the mockups don’t show is the interior insulation package (spray-applied Rockwool Premium Plus from American Rockwool for most walls, with some spray foam where appropriate).  We’re excited to use this insulation, which combines thermal efficiency, acoustical control, and fire protection in one material.

Once everything is installed, we’ll have an exterior envelope that should considerably exceed the code requirements for R-value (insulation) and air leakage but which will look absolutely appropriate on this classic home.